Bologna

Bologna is a gorgeous city-- who knew! Having only been to the airport and Ikea in Bologna, we did not have great expectations but we were wrong. The city center is beautiful (and filled with designer shops). Most of the sidewalks are covered, which is pretty and would also make it a great stop in summer. Since it is only 30 miles away we will go back often. Perhaps a girls shopping trip. . .

Primavera

After a long, dark winter spring is finally here. It is in the 60's but the Italians are still wearing fur and looking fabulous. Looks like I'll get to wear boots for at least another month. Seems that is what they do here.

Today was a fabulous spring morning. I met friends for cappucino then walked a few blocks to the art exhibit at the Diamond Palace. It was quite contemporary but I still enjoyed it. My favorite by far was Le Buisson by Matisse

The abstract art was fun with my two year old. He said he one painting was a racecar, another was a shark, a motorcylce and some water. Isn't that the point. . . that everyone see something different?

Then it was on to the park for play and a lunch of pizza and wine at an outdoor cafe in the park. On the way home we stopped at our regular fruit store, chatted with the owners about the great weather and bought some lovely pears to cook with dinner tonight. (Only 1 Euro for 6 pears! Asparagus is still 11 Euros per kilo-- like eating gold.)

Tuesday Tastes: Verdure Fresche

Oh my goodness I just spent 7 Euros on asparagus.

That works out to about $1 per stalk.

I kind of wish I didn't do that math. . . again.

Shocking but I probably would have paid 20 Euros because this is the first time I've seen it for sale since we've lived here (June). In the States asparagus was my go-to side dish. Always easy and elegant and I've really missed it.

Here only the freshest fruits and vegetables are sold. . . only things that are in season and they take such pride in all of it. At the fruit stores, you are not allowed to touch anything. You tell them what you want and they carefully select each piece. At the grocery stores you must wear a glove to select your own fruit.

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Fresh fruit and veggies must be purchased almost daily because everything is sold at its peak and only keeps for a day or so. No stocking up at Wal-mart for the week. But it is gorgeous (I can't believe I just called food gorgeous but really it is. None of this not-quite-ripe stuff you see in the States) and tastes just as fabulous.

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I am so glad to finally find asparagus because I had decided they just must not eat it here. Not too far fetched because Italians don't eat fresh corn. Can you imagine a summer without fresh corn on the cob? I had one. They sell in it cans but that's it. Actually, they also sell a frozen pizza called "The Big Americans" and guess what it has on it. . . corn.

Lunedi Lovelies: Palazzo dei Diamanti

The Diamond Palace. . . another gem of Ferrara (pun intended, hee hee) The palace was commissioned by the Estes and is one of the most famous Renaissance buildings in the world. The exterior is made of 8,500 diamonds carved out of marble.

To me the design is very contemporary but it was built in 1492. The same year Columbus sailed the ocean blue and way before power tools. Can you imagine carving each of those pieces of marble? Amazing. Legend has it that a very valuable diamond is hidden behind one of the marble diamonds.

It is now owned by the city and the interior is an art museum that also hosts many important traveling exhibits. They had an amazing Boldini exhibit (my favorite artist) and currently have an exhibition on Kandisky.

interior courtyard

Scarpe

I need shoe advice. As the season is beginning to change I am planning my spring shoe purchases. This is rather important as I walk at least 2 km a day. . . on cobblestones. . . often running after a two year old. . . but must be fashionable. This is Italy and here you only wear running shoes if you are actually running.

These crazy sandals were all over Italy at the end of last summer and now I'm seeing them for sale on US websites. So it must be a trend that is going to stick. My husband thinks they are ridiculous. I kind of think so too but I said the same thing about skinny jeans and thigh high boots and now I wear those daily. What do you think? Will you be buying a pair this spring?

My big problem is closed toe flats. I always think they are comfortable in the store then after wearing them a while they are miserable. Anyone have a brand that fits great and looks great? My husband tells me to just wear heels (of course he does) but a great pair of flats is a must for day trips to Venice, etc. or wandering museums. You get the point. Pleeease send me your suggestions!

Prada, Fendi, Armani. . .

Oh how I wish I could have been there. . . Italian fashion week was a few weeks ago. I would have loved to be in Milan during that time.

This year the week was cut short and I just read an article (thanks Dot) explaining why. It seems Anna Wintour, editor of American Vogue, decided to only be Italy 3 days. The Italians panicked and rearranged the whole schedule at the last minute. Huge fashion houses like Dolce and Gabbana changed scrambled to change days to accommodate her.

Seem a bit much? Actually it is not. If Ms. Wintour is not at a show, the stores won't buy that designer. She has been called the most powerful woman in America and I might agree. It is pretty impressive that an entire industry depends on her very presence.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/milan-fashion-week/7207157/Milan-Fashion-Week-in-chaos-after-Anna-Wintour-cuts-visit-short.html



I just watched The September Issue, a documentary about Anna Wintour, and I absolutely loved it. I highly recomend it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9-bAwz9uWk She is not as demanding as she was portrayed in The Devil Wears Prada but it is amazing to watch how this one woman infuences a whole industry.

Al Brindisi

Again, it amazes me that our city is not touristy.

At all.

I've heard Rick Steves doesn't even mention it in his Italy book.

One of our favorite restaurants in town is Brindisi. It is in the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world. It has been a restaurant/ wine bar since 1435. Yes, you read that right. . . 1435. That's amost six hundred years. It is a teeny tiny restaurant on a small alley but they serve good food and have walls lined with very old bottles of wine covered in dust.

When Copernicus lived here (sometime in the early 1500's) he lived in an apartment right above Brindisi and so this was his regular wine bar. Amazing that we drink wine at the same place as someone I learned about in 6th grade science class. All seems quite normal now.